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myrish-lace-love · 8 years ago

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This is the fourth installment in this series. You can read the first one here, the second one here, and the third one here. They’re also all on AO3 here.

Summary: Sansa is a physical therapist doing her clinic hours in Milwaukee for the winter. Jon, her downstairs neighbor, is a veteran who’s come back from Afghanistan. They first met during a power outage, and have been getting to know each other since then, sharing a meal every Tuesday. They’ve had some Thanksgiving and Christmas adventures, and have been friends for about six months. Now Jon’s leaving for a summer sailing vacation with his army buddies, and he wants to write to Sansa while he’s gone. He has trouble telling her how he feels when they’re together, but he opens up when he writes.

***

“I’m so jealous, Jon! A trip to the Virgin Islands with your old army buddies.” Sansa had finally gotten the news out of Jon at the end of their meal. They were sitting on the couch in her apartment. She had the AC cranked up. Summers in Milwaukee were hot and muggy. The old, single-pane windows were fogging up, but at least she and Jon were comfortable.

Plus Jon wore t-shirts all the time, so she called the summer a win.

Jon started clearing away the dishes. She followed him to the kitchen. He tried to keep her from helping, since she’d cooked. She took a towel and shot him a just you try it look, so he gave in. Her galley kitchen had a double-basin sink but no dishwasher. They formed their own little assembly line as Jon washed and Sansa dried.

“We planned the trip a long time ago,” he said. “For when Sam turned 25. We fly to Miami first. Ten days, five ports. It’ll be about three weeks total. We’re chartering a boat, so we’re not doing the big cruise ship thing. We all know how to sail. I almost cancelled, I haven’t got much money-“

Sansa put the glass down a little too forcefully. “Jon, how could you? Sam’s counting on you and you deserve to have fun, even if it costs a little more money than you can afford. You can’t put a price on-“

“Memories, I know.” Jon’s mouth quirked. “Trust me, you convinced me about a week ago.”

“You only told me about it tonight!”

“I have conversations with you in my head.” Jon sloshed the soap around. “Okay, that sounded really strange. I mean, you give me good advice, and I remember it. Sometimes I ask you questions even when you’re not there….And that sounds weird too.” He paused. “I-“

Sansa took pity on him. Actually, she was touched he thought about her when they weren’t together.

“I’m just a little mad that I’m so predictable, is all.”

“Don’t be. You’re really easy to talk to.”

“I bet you say that to all the girls who cook you pizza.”

“I don’t, Sansa.”

“Yeah, because I’m the only girl who makes you pizza.”

“You are, but–“ Jon stopped scrubbing the plate. He closed his eyes. This weight in the air between them came up more often now that they’d been friends for six months. Sansa didn’t know whether to lean into it or shy away from it.

She took the easy way out. “So when are you leaving?”

He handed her the last dish.

“This weekend. Can I – Can I write you while I’m gone, Sansa?”

“You’re only gone for a few weeks, Jon, you don’t have to go to all that trouble.” She would miss him though. A lot. She wondered if she looked distraught. He was leaving for less than a month. She was a big girl. She’d be fine.

She tried to lighten the mood. “Besides, we do this thing called texting in the 21st century, remember? I text you about a blackout in our apartment and you come save the day. You text me about a burned turkey and I talk you into ordering fried kitchen when your buddies visit.”

“You saved the day, too, on Thanksgiving,” he said.

“And we even managed to have a fight about mousetraps over text.”

“We figured it out though.” He was smiling.

“See? Texting it is.”

Jon glanced away. He took the dishtowel from her and hung it to dry, then looked at her again.

“May I write you, Sansa?”

There was so much yearning in his expression that she felt like he was asking if he could kiss her.

Read more below or continue on AO3

“Y-yes, of course, Jon, you can. You don’t have to ask. But I won’t be able to write you back, will l?

Jon shook his head. “The charter won’t take incoming mail. I’ll send the letters when we dock. You don’t – if they’re boring, or too much, just…set them aside.”

She wasn’t sure why he was nervous. “I’ll read them, Jon.” She couldn’t drive him to the airport because she was visiting her family. But she made him tell her when he was coming back, so she could give him a ride home.

***

The first letter arrived three days after he left. He’d bought heavy, ivory stationary. Or he’d bought stationary sometime in the past ten years and dug it up, she thought. Be realistic, Sansa, this isn’t a movie. It felt a little bit like one, though, when she slid her nail under the edge and carefully tore the envelope, sliding out Jon’s letter.

He had neat, sloping handwriting. The way the blue ink sometimes smudged reminded her of Arya, and she thought she’d guessed right, that Jon was left-handed.

Sansa,

I hope you are well. We’ve shipped out of Tortola. Don’t worry, I know where the life vests are. It’s good to see the guys again. We’ve been realizing how much we forgot about sailing over the past few years, but it’s coming back to us. Sam and Pyp and Grenn say hi. Virgin Gorda is next.

Thanks for letting me do this.

Yours,

Jon

Sansa smiled. She had asked him about life vests before he left. She knew she was being silly, but she was happy he’d remembered. Other than that, though…she had to admit she was a little disappointed. Jon’s letter seemed kind of…perfunctory. She’d expected more, after he’d asked whether he could write to her.

His last line stuck with her, though.

Thanks for letting me do this.

It was hardly a favor to get letters from a friend in the mail.

And his sign-off wasn’t so bad, either.

Yours, Jon.

She traced the words in the little yellow circle of lamplight by her bedside table.

She did want Jon to be hers. No harm confessing it to herself here in her bedroom, surrounded by her floral sheets and lace curtains that were completely frivolous. Even if this was the only letter she got, it would be worth saving for Yours.

***

His second letter showed up two days later. She ran upstairs to read it, opening it on the kitchen counter.

Sansa,

Virgin Gorda’s beautiful. I wish you could see it. You’d like the water, I think, how blue it is in the evening. We did some hiking around the Baths. The grottos and caves are amazing. I can’t wait to show you the pictures.

The guys have headed out to get food, so I have a few minutes to myself on the deck. It’s peaceful here. The sky is filled with stars.

How is Willas? I hope he’s trying the new exercises you gave him. If anyone can get him to do it, it’s you. No one can match you for kindness and stubbornness.

We’re headed to Anegada next. Wish us luck. It’ll be some tricky sailing, but it should be fun.

Yours,

Jon

It was lovely, how Jon asked her questions even though she couldn’t write him back. Jon let her chatter on about how her work was going at the physical therapy clinic downtown. He paid attention, too.

Willas was her favorite patient, and she talked a lot about the good progress he was making with his leg, especially now that he had a new brace to wear.

Sansa loved her job. Even her dearest friends, like Margaery, sometimes couldn’t keep their eyes from glazing over when she went on about the Pilates equipment they’d just got. Or how she hated charting progress notes, because they took away from the time she had to talk to her patients about how they were doing.

But Jon was thoughtful, more thoughtful than people gave him credit for. He was thinking about her, and her job, and how she was, while he was on vacation looking at the stars.

He’d called her kind. And stubborn. He was right, about both. But then, he was both of those things too. She stacked the second letter carefully on top of the first on her bedside table before she went to sleep. She couldn’t wait to read his next letter.

***

Six days later, Sansa’s spirits sank when she swung open the door to her mailbox in the apartment lobby and found only a few sales flyers. Again.

She knew his letters might take a day or two to arrive, and he could only mail them after they’d pulled into the slip at the harbor.

But six days….six days felt like he’d moved on.

She wound her way up the stairs. She let herself in and heated up some spaghetti. She carried it to the couch, feeling sorry for herself. Did you really think he’d mail a letter at every port? He was probably having a ball with Sam and the guys. That was a good thing for him. He didn’t get out enough as it was.

She wasn’t allowed to mope because he was finally having fun on his vacation and he’d stopped writing to his upstairs neighbor. She needed to get a grip. She pushed her food around and watched some TV before getting into bed. This situation was absolutely fine. No big deal.

And she definitely did not squeal when she found an envelope with Jon’s handwriting in her mailbox the next day. Okay, maybe she did, but at least no one was around to hear it.

Dear Sansa,

Sorry I couldn’t write. There’s been a rough storm. Don’t worry, we’re all fine, but we were all pretty seasick for a while there. Sam’s going to kill me for this, but he was the greenest of all of us. I feel bad for him, since it was his birthday yesterday.

After not eating anything for two days we were starving, so we had a big meal tonight, steaks and grilled corn. I don’t know when you’ll get this, but it’s Tuesday tonight, and although I’m having a good time (I am, really, I’m living in the moment, Scout’s honor) I miss our pizza night tradition. You make the best pizza I‘ve ever had, and I get to sit next to you and share the night with you. It’s the best part of my week, every week. I wanted you to know that.

We’re docked at Anegada. It’s secluded, and quiet. We spent some time on the beach today, and we’re going snorkeling tomorrow on the reefs.

Okay, they’re calling me up on deck, I have to go. I miss you. Hope that’s not too much. I’ll write soon.

Yours,

Jon

A storm. A storm was the only thing that had kept him from writing to her, and now he was apologizing for it. And he’d remembered the bit about living in the moment, which she’d tried to drill into him before she left. Only one 25th birthday and memories with your friends and don’t spend the whole time in your cabin and…yeah, she’d probably crossed the line from cheerleading to nagging at some point.

But Jon had taken her words to heart. She smiled at the thought of him and Sam and Pyp and Grenn checking out tropical fish underwater.

She ran a bath that night and used up one of her Lush bath bombs. The water turned pink and fizzy, and she sank into the tub with a contented sigh.

She’d double-checked the packaging this time. She didn’t want a repeat of the glitter bomb experience. She’d shown up red-faced at work the next day. It was pretty hard to help patients get the most out of their abdominal series and hip flexor stretches when you were shedding sparkles all over them.

She drew circles with the bubbles on the surface of the bathwater and let her muscles relax, thinking about Jon and what he’d said about pizza night. Best part of my week.

It was the best part of hers, too. Sometimes, she suspected Jon felt like he was on the periphery of her life. As if she only thought about him occasionally, since she was more outgoing and had a wider circle of friends.

She took Mr. Duck down from his shelf and let him swim in the water with her. “It’s not true, Mr. Duck. Jon’s important to me. He’s like an anchor. Not the kind that keeps me weighed down but the kind that keeps me steady, you know? Keeps me grounded.”

Mr. Duck bobbed his orange beak. Great, now she was talking to a duck. Maybe she missed Jon more than she thought.

He’d said that too. I miss you. And it wasn’t too much, like he thought it might be. It was just right. She had a warm feeling in her chest as she dried off and laid her clothes out for tomorrow. She wished Jon was here, so she could tell him she missed him too.

***

Margaery stopped by to visit the next night, and she was her usual whirlwind of nonstop questions. As much as Sansa loved her, Margaery could sometimes drive her crazy.

“This adorable apartment of yours. Made for a magazine. I’d kill for that clawfoot tub.” Marg stuck her head in Sansa’s bedroom. “What are these, my dear?” Margaery snatched the stack of letters from her bedside table.

“Marg! Put those down.” Sansa had planned to tell Margaery about the letters, but she wasn’t exactly sure if she wanted Marg to read them. They felt very personal, even if they were short.

Margaery unfolded the pages. “You know this is ridiculously romantic, right?” She sighed dreamily. “A sailor, writing to you from every port.”

“Marg, he’s made three stops and he’s just on vacation with his friends.”

“Please. He’s sending you handwritten letters on gorgeous paper and–“ Marg picked up one of the envelopes.

“The stamps, Sansa, did you see them? They’re flowers! Not those American flag stamps. You know he had to ask for them specifically?”

Sansa hadn’t known, but she’d wondered.

Margaery put her wrist to her brow, as if she was fainting. “He’s thought about this, Sansa, and he asked you if he could. Like he’s courting you.”

“He’s not.”

Margaery smirked. “You’re not fooling me. You’re glowing, my dear.”

Sansa smiled. “Okay, yes, it’s super romantic and I get butterflies each time I see one and – how’s work going anyway, Marg?”

Margaery turned the pages over again. “He seems to be getting more comfortable with each letter,” she mused. “You absolutely have to text me when he writes next.”

Sansa laughed and waved her off. She wasn’t sure if she would text Margaery. She wanted these letters to be just between her and Jon.

Three days later, she got two letters on the same day in her mailbox.

Dear Sansa,

How are you? Has Margaery visited yet? Is she driving you nuts? How was Arya’s swim meet?

Sorry – I fill up with questions for you, when you’re not around. I save up stories to tell you. We just got back from sailing to Jost Van Dyke Island. We managed to make it all the way up Mahjonny Hill. You can see all the way around the island from the peak. You really feel like you’re on top of the world, with all of the green hills below you and the sky like a big blue bowl overhead.

We’re back in Tortola now. We were at the market today. I didn’t want to go at first, but the guys dragged me, and I’m grateful. Like I’m grateful for how you encourage me to get out and see things, even when I feel like staying at home is easier.

The square was noisy and crowded and colorful and I think you would have loved every booth. I got you something, nothing big. Just earrings I thought would look pretty with your eyes. They made me think of the waves on the ocean, and you.

Yours,

Jon

Sansa’s cheeks were warm. She’d loved Jon’s Christmas present – a beautiful picture frame, for her holiday photo of all the Starks together. But that gift had been about celebrating her family, not about her and Jon.

She’d thought, at the time, that it was intentionally platonic. Just friends, nothing to see here. Then again, her Christmas gift had been that way too – she’d given him a tin of peanut butter cookies. They’d both been walking the friend line so carefully.

But jewelry – jewelry was intimate. More than just friends. She couldn’t wait to see the earrings. And she couldn’t wait for Jon to give her a gift that was about the two of them.

She tore open the next letter like she was having a mini-Christmas of her own.

Dear Sansa,

We’re coming to the end of the trip. We’re still docked in Tortola. There was dancing in the square tonight, after the sun went down. The streetlights came on and people came out of their houses as soon as the music started playing. There were old couples and young ones, swaying in the twilight. I only watched, though Sam teased me about it. I’m glad Sam got to dance. Pyp and Grenn did, too.

I’d like to dance with you, Sansa, take you in my arms and hold you close and sway with you. (I’m not a great dancer, so swaying is all I can manage.) I try to tell you how I feel, when I’m near you. I just get tongue-tied, and stop.

But now that it’s nighttime, and I’m back in my cabin, and I miss you so much it hurts, I can write it down. I lo care about you a lot, Sansa. There’s part of me that almost hopes you’ve stopped reading, because I’m scared of how I feel. But you deserve to know, so you can make whatever choice you want.

You’re beautiful and smart and funny and generous and I’ve never met anyone who’s so patient with me. I’d like to try to be more than friends, if that’s something you want too.

Please know that whatever you decide when I come back, I’ll respect it. I promise I will, Sansa. I’ll see you soon.

Yours always,

Jon

Sansa saw a splash on the letter and realized she’d been crying. She wiped her eyes.

She cared about Jon so much it scared her too. She kept stepping away from that feeling, because it was big, and risky. But now she knew he felt the same way. Yours always.

She drove to the airport early that Sunday, to make sure she could see Jon when he got off the plane. The airport was packed, and she had to elbow her way to the front of the line at the arrivals gates.

She kept scanning the crowd, and suddenly Jon was there. She ran to meet him. Jon saw her, and a mixture of fear and hope flickered across his face.

“Sansa I-“

She didn’t let him finish. She threw her arms around him. He dropped his suitcase and pulled her tight, his hand at the small of her back. She buried her face in the crook of his neck and breathed him in. She could smell sunblock and soap and that faint scent of pine she associated with no one but him. She held on to his shirt with one hand and looked up at him.

“Jon, they were beautiful.”

“They were about you,” he said simply, as if that explained everything. “I had to go away, to be able to tell you how I felt.“ He smiled at her. “I was so afraid I’d put you off. Did you – did you read all of them?”

She nodded.

“And you’re here,” he murmured. “In my arms.”

She reached up and brushed his hair away from his forehead. They’d spent so long not touching each other, and now she didn’t want to stop.

He leaned in and she closed her eyes. His kissed her gingerly, at first, until she ran her hands through his hair, and then he kissed her deeply, hungrily, like he couldn’t stand to let her go.

“Get a room, you two!” Someone hollered from a distance.

Sansa tuned them out. She tuned out the crowd of people streaming around them, too. All she felt was Jon, his warmth and his strong arms and how he held her like she was something special, something he cherished.

When they finally broke apart the crowd had slowed to a trickle. She helped Jon with his suitcase and drove him home. They spent the night looking through his pictures, and talking about his trip. Jon blushed when he pulled the earrings from his bag. They were silver triangles, with a crescent of blue-green abalone shell. She traced them with her fingertip.

“I love them, Jon.”

“I’m glad, Sansa. I really wanted you to like them enough to wear them.”

They kissed him again and again that night, and she went to bed far too late.

Her favorite kiss was the one he gave her at the door. He’d insisted on going back to his apartment. Sansa was half-tempted to drag him to her bedroom with her, but Jon seemed to want to go slow.

“So this – us – this is all right?”

“More than all right, Jon.”

Jon kissed her cheek, then tucked her hair behind her ear. “Then goodnight, sweet girl. I’ll see you tomorrow.”

Sweet girl saw her off to bed. She wasn’t sure where they were going next, but she was happy they’d go there together.

#jonsacentric #jonsalove #jonsasource #my fic #jonxsansaff

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sailingbrisa · 8 years ago

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February Adventure!

As February comes to a close… I figure it is time to post some of this months action….. However there has been so much of it that I feel like it is too long of a story.

Before I left my job and my little house in Panama life went by very very quickly… now it seems to be doing the opposite, days filled with activity and adventure, floating leisurely by.

The Coombes family may have misplaced their boat, ( read about it on their blog https://westerlyadventures.wordpress.com ), but I am very happy to say they have definitely not lost their spirit, and early every morning for almost the last three weeks I have woken up on Brisa to the sound of happy family noises. Sometimes it sounded more like a large heard of elephants… but always no matter what there were little happy voices saying in awesome English accents, Mummy I’m starrrrving. Then kids learning times tables, parents frothing over the possibility of surf ( both Fran and James are just big groms still, and James will LITERALLY surf anything….and for that matter eat almost anything, no matter what it smells like… ), he is however a bit of an anomaly, charging literally dry reef breaks without a scratch, only to making sure to take skin off of his left leg at every other fairly easy surf spot after that. ) If you check their blog you can also see their thoughts on the Brisa adventure.

There was hiking,…sighting another fish off of BVI chart of fish that the kids scrounged up somewhere, free dive training, party pool sitting, surfing, lobster hunting, paddle boarding, tow surfing, kite flying, swimming, paddle training, headstand practice etc. Brisa has never before seen so much energy, enthusiasm and full time activity since I have owned her. I have no idea how James and Fran keep the hectic pace up. Needless to say everyone sleeps very early and very well, usually going to bed with nightfall around 730 or 8.

Without a doubt I think the Penguins of Madagascar will eternally be burned into my brain. The kids fell in love with that movie.

Today is the first time I have woken up to a quiet, still boat in a very long time and it took a bit of adjusting… so I went back to sleep and woke up a bit later today. However I do miss the little monsters!

Lets go back a bit to where this month started …. Quite hard to think back to when we arrived in the BVIs as we have been so many places and seen and done so many things. Brisa and crew ( read that to mean Coombes family ) arrived in Virgin Gorda about 3 or four days before Susi and Bills MaiTai ( www.maitai.com ), this year combined with www.xtremetechchallenge on Sir Richard Bransons Necker Island. We spent the time napping, homeschooling, hiking and trying to find good fresh fruit…. $5. Usd for a small ( but yummy ) grapefruit. We found tins of tuna that were $1.05 in St Martin for $3.85c, basically everything and anything is triple the price if you are in a boat harbor in the BVIs. Also $35 dollars a night for a mooring ball. Needless to say we have a great anchor and have only paid for one night on a mooring.

We were expecting at least three additional guests onboard for four or five days. Cameron Dietrich from www.Kiteclub.com, an old friend was the guest of honor and much to the kids enjoyment very happy to sit and talk story with them for hours. Unfortunately he was off on a beautiful super yacht for most of the time he was here, taking good care of his VIP guests in the BVI. We didn’t see a lot of him other than when we woke up in the AM and before he was off for his days adventure.

The first day of MaiTai kicked off and I took the dingy up to Necker to see the crew. It was quite a bit different this year with security greeting me at the beach and after a few radio calls I was sent up to the main beach house, walking past my old friends the Lemurs, parrots and newish arrivals, Toucans. I had never been up close to these beautiful birds, so I stopped and checked them out for a while… then walked up the stairs greeted by Sabine Schindlbauer, u I walked up to See Susi and she was sitting with Richard and Ben Meyer so after a few hugs and his we sat at lunch for a while and talked story and catching up .. mostly fishing this time. The infamous Marlin story was re-told and we sat for half and hour catching up with Susi and Ben with Richard entertaining us.

That night we had two more of our guests arrive on Brisa. I can honestly say that I had not met an astrophysicist before, but these two guys were prototype drone specialists, building their own amazing three D drone. ( we watched it on VR goggles and it was literally an amazing tour of Necker Island ( see if there is a link ) It was a total pleasure to have Both Nicolas Chibac and Markus Bobbe from Germany sleeping with us on Brisa. Check out their website and have a look at their absolutely amazing 3d drone footage. http://www.spicevr.com

Was also great to see Bill Tai again after four years and as always the awesome team on Necker.

I also had the pleasure to kitesurf with President Obama for an hour or so. His secret service team was right there beside the Necker boat teaching him how to kite all the time and wouldn’t let us get too close…. But I can say I have now kited with the president.

https://www.virgin.com/richard-branson/richard-vs-barack-kiteboard-and-foilboard-challenge

The next day was nice and windy so Cam and I went for a kite from Virgin Gorda to Necker and I got to hang for ages with Ben and the Mai Tai kite crew on the beach. Awesome fun and perfect 12m kite weather, with crystal clear water and spectacular reef.

As all our MaiTai guests departed at the end of the week, Brisa once again went back to the core crew and we set sail early one morning for Anegada, as part of a daily flotilla of charter boats heading that way. It was a nice fast two hour sail up there in some choppy seas and up to 22 knots of wind. We towed both dinghy’s and hit a top speed of 9.2 knots, slowing ourselves so not to have the dinghy’s fly out of the water.

We originally anchored close to the main mooring field amongst the rowdy charter boats, but soon found a great anchorage further west in front of an amazing kiting beach… so we moved Brisa down there and anchored in about 7 feet of water swimming distance to a picture perfect white sand beach. The Coombes went for waves, the kids and I chilled and watched the sunset and flew the drone.

We kited, surfed and explored the island… awesome kiting.. awesome location and highly recommended as a surf, or kite destination.

Our next port of call was the Baths on the southern end of Virgin Gorda and let me tell you. SPECTACULAR. The water was so clear and calm you didn’t need to get in the water to go snorkeling.. you could just sit on the boat and watch the fish from the deck. The amazing swim-throughs in the huge boulder field, combined with teaming sea life, made this probably one of the kids favorite stops, and we all enjoyed all day long snorkeling and exploration. If you have not seen this place, it is truly spectacular, with some of the clearest waters I have seen so far.

We left the Baths and headed for Cane Garden Bay in front of a nice looking North East swell. We anchored in Cane in amongst the mooring field and got chased out to another part of the Bay by Slim.. the guy collecting the money for the moorings. We spent a couple of great days in Cane before the swell arrived, of course in the middle of the night of the full moon party, accompanied by unbearably loud mid 90s gangster rap, proudly sung along to by the horrendous DJ. I really thought how horrible the experience must have been for the guests, if they were not born in or around 1980 in Compton, lived a life of crime and somehow managed to get to the full moon party in Cane Garden Bay…

Anyways.. the boat was rolling and bashing and booming and Brisa clearly loved the music as she danced the night away on top of the waves as they grew. After not sleeping at all, we all got up at three am and moved the boat to a little sheltered corner of the bay and caught a couple of hours sleep before the first of many surf sessions on a beautiful long right point break. The crowd was very chill and loads of great surf for everyone. I managed to surf three boards during the day. Got lucky with one stupid wipeout as I landed bum first on my quad fins, knocking out two of the fin boxes. Luckily I did not manage to cut my bum on the fins… bit bruised, but no blood. Buns of steel. The board didn’t fear so well and will need some repair at the next board repair stop.

The next morning we woke up early, watched the little waves peeling along the point and pulled anchor and headed to meet up with Tash, the owner of the Coombes new home for a week or two, aboard Puffin. We went into Road Town, had some Great Conch fritters, took care of immigration extensions and found the surf shop still there for James to get some new fins. Then off to drop off my awesome crew form England in Trellis bay, with just a slight detour into Fat Hog Bay as I may have gotten a little lost… :o

We unloaded Brisa and loaded Puffin, did laundry, ate chicken roti while clothes dried and Tash cooked a fantastic meal to welcome the Coombes family from Brisa. I downloaded the damn Penguin movie and all the amazing photo memories onto James’ hard drive, and with a bit of a teary farewell said goodbye to the Coombes, for now as I am sure our paths will cross again, probably Wednesday as we go back to Cane Garden to chase some more point break perfection. I had to find a way out of the mooring bouy field in Trellis Bay, not an easy thing to do on a very dark night, so after creeping carefully out at about 9 pm, I motored up to Virgin Gorda sound again, arriving about 10.30 pm anchored and had a fantastic sleep in the same exact spot as we had originally anchored, only three weeks before.

This morning I spent it cleaning up, washing down Brisa and did a little shopping. The trip back to St. Martin from the BVIs Is not pleasant to say the least so I have been watching the weather closely. The plan for now is to go back down to Cane Garden tonight, surf Wednesday, Thursday am and leave back to Virgin Gorda Thursday, in time to check out of customs, leaving BVI for St. Martin late Thursday night, arriving in the afternoon Friday if I'm lucky.

The next installment will cover the next amazing surf.. the trip home.. some deep sea adventures in a cold front, a little marlin story and a lot of maintenance!

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amelikwood-blog · 5 years ago

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Cabo Yacht Charters

Anegada is the British Virgin Island's only coral atoll. It sits serene and apart, yet it is located only about 20 miles to the northeast of Tortola and 14 miles north of Virgin Gorda - an easy and pleasant sail for those on a Tortola Yacht Charter. The sparsely populated island is ringed by a swathe of white sand, and is almost completely surrounded by the Horseshoe Reef. This reef is one of the world's largest and is responsible for over 300 shipwrecks. Aptly named by Columbus, Anegada (the "drowned land") is only 28 feet about sea level at its highest point.

For many years, Anegada was off limits for Tortola Yacht Charters. Fortunately today, however, many charter bases like the Moorings actually provide a cheat sheet to get there and explore this alluring speck of paradise. Even with the tip sheet, the approach to Anegada is spectacular yet a bit daunting for those on a Tortola Charter due to the vast 18 mile horseshoe-shaped reef that surrounds the island. The Anegada "Harbour" is simply a narrow, shallow opening in the coral reef in its southwestern side between the Anegada Reef Hotel at Setting Point and Pomato Point. Once you Yacht Charters Cabo arrive on Anegada, it is just as spectacular as the approach. A true desert island paradise measuring only 11 by 3 miles, it is quiet and incredibly laid back with only a handful of small beach bars and restaurants. Although a Tortola Charter should be relaxing in and of itself, if you cannot chill out here - you probably never will!

Anegada can easily be toured in a day. After paying for your mooring ball at Anegada Reef Hotel, the best way to see the island is to rent a jeep. D.W.'s popular old blue Samari jeep is particularly fun for a group. Be prepared, however, for the sun as there is little shade on Anegada. After having a cold drink at one of a handful of establishments at Setting Point, head west on the South Shore Road paralleling the Anegada Harbour. Continue on to Pomato Point where the beaches begin. Since Anegada is an island of coral sand, its beaches are some of the best in the Caribbean. They offer miles of beautiful, uninterrupted beach.

Although the beaches are major attractions for surfer and kite boarding enthusiasts, they are so deserted that chances are you will not see another set of footprints in the sand. You can, however, always find a bit of shade at a beach bar. While at Pomato Point, stop in the small museum at the Pomato Point restaurant. Most of the collection of treasures in this small one-room museum comes from shipwrecks that floundered on Horseshoe reef. In the collection you can find an old map showing the location of over 200 wrecks, as well as canon and musket balls, ship timbers and copper rivets, many apothecary jars, gin/rum bottles, ink pots, a silver teapot and coins from many nations. Continue along the south shore and around Anegada's West End Point, making a half circle around Flamingo Pond. Much of the island's interior is made up of salt ponds, the largest of which is Flamingo Pond. The salt ponds are home for wading birds like the Great Blue Heron, Little Blue Heron, stilts and terns. In addition, the salt ponds are the perfect habitat for roseate flamingos. Once thousands inhabited the BVI, however, the young could be easily rounded up and herded to boats for food. In 1992, the decision was made to reintroduce flamingos to the lagoon. The project has proved a success as wild flamingos have joined them to rear young.

As you continue on your jeep tour of the island, the "road" becomes little more than a track through the sand. Watch for the North Shore Road by the sign to Cow Wreck Beach (a cow's skull is attached to a weathered wooden board). Take the turnoff to Cow Wreck Beach named for the cow bones - especially skulls - that washed ashore from wrecks of ships carrying them to be ground up into bone meal for fertilizer. The turnoff takes you across a series of wave-like sand dunes. If you are in a jeep, it is great fun! Grab a drink at the Cow Wreck Beach Bar and Grill and take a cool catnap in the hammocks under the trees. Because the currents go towards the shore, Cow Wreck Beach is an especially good snorkeling spot for kids. Cow Wreck Beach is one of the famous beaches of Anegada located on the north Atlantic side. Guarded by a straight line of reefs just offshore, the beaches make sweeping curves on to shore to form protected lagoons.

Land peninsulas, names "points", jut out to separate scenic bays and bights. They are perfect for sunbathing, beachcombing, secluded picnics, snorkeling or sea kayaking. In addition, the north side of Anegada has the most important BVI nesting beaches for green sea turtles and hawksbill turtles. After returning to the North Road, continue driving around the island. You will find a very scenic route on a smooth drive that winds between beaches and the salt pond. At the next left, next to a large sea grape tree, you will find the road to Cow Wreck Bay and Bones Bight, where it is possible to occasionally see the highly endangered Anegada rock iguana. Growing to six feet long, this harmless and very rare iguana uses the crater-like coral rock with its holes to make a home.

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mastcomm · 5 years ago

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Who Needs a Caribbean Yacht When You Can Take the Ferry?

Orion was shining brightly in the dark sky above Anegada in the British Virgin Islands. But the constellation had some electric competition in the band of bright mast lights bobbing offshore — “like a bejeweled Orion’s belt,” observed a new acquaintance who introduced himself as Spoons, the pilot of one of those yachts. He and his crew of five friends from the Boston area had paid $10,900 for eight days on a 45-foot catamaran to sail from island to island.

Chartering a boat is one way to island hop in the B.V.I. — and a popular one. According to the tourism board, slightly more than half of all visitors to the British overseas territory’s 60 islands and cays stay on yachts.

I, on the other hand, chose a far cheaper way to travel between islands. Using the B.V.I. ferry system, I spent $140 — not including accommodations, which added about $700 to my expenses — over a five-day trip, reaching four ports in bargain, connect-the-dots style.

In the Caribbean, several ferry companies offer opportunities for multi-island vacations, such as the L’Express des Iles, which cruises from Guadeloupe to Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia. Others offer domestic service, including ferries from St. Vincent to some of the outlying Grenadines, and those that link the United States Virgin Islands.

But few Caribbean destinations offer a ferry system as extensive and convenient as the British Virgin Islands’. The tourism board details schedules and links to seven islands on an interactive web page devoted to island hopping.

From my first childhood ferry trip to Mackinac Island, Mich., where cars are banned, I have had a romance with ships that fill in for roads, carry vital cargo and allow communities to thrive in isolated places. They are buses for commuters, trucks for suppliers and relatively cheap maritime thrills for travelers.

Yes, cruise ships can actually be a rock-bottom ticket to the Caribbean — on my trip, I met a couple from South Carolina who spent only $600 each on an 11-day Norwegian cruise — but as an independent traveler, I find those affordable ships too big, and small charters too expensive. The ferry system seemed just right to this backpacking Goldilocks.

Seeking a winter warm up and a budget tropical vacation, I went to the B.V.I. in January to test the convenience and cost of the ferry system, hitting the cruise hub of Tortola, the mountainous beauty of Virgin Gorda, and remote Anegada.

Have passport, will ferry

Often, the cheapest flights from the United States that arrive nearest the B.V.I. land in St. Thomas (in the United States Virgin Islands), which is where I caught the 8:30 a.m. Road Town Fast Ferry from downtown Charlotte Amalie to Road Town, the B.V.I. capital, 50 minutes away on the island of Tortola ($60 round trip; the United States dollar is the official currency of the B.V.I.).

A mix of day trippers, business commuters, yacht renters and one friendly couple from Tortola who helped me with my immigration form joined me on the windy trip aboard the 82-foot passenger ferry BVI Patriot. With four-foot waves and occasional sprinkles, I sat on the upper deck inside the cabin, which was both strangely ordinary — two flat screens tuned to CNN delivered news of the Democratic presidential debates and a snowstorm in New York — and wildly exotic as we passed leggy cactuses growing out of rock islets, forested hillsides of undeveloped islands and a few stands of barren mangroves, evidence of Hurricanes Irma and Maria, which struck in 2017. (The damage inflicted by those hurricanes brought the hotel room inventory to about 1,500, down from 2,700.)

Two cruise ships in the harbor dwarfed the 149-passenger BVI Patriot when we arrived. After clearing immigration, I hired a taxi driver, Conrad “Dodgy” Lewis — “Dodgy doesn’t describe my driving,” he insisted — to take me from the congested capital over the island’s mountain spine to Cane Garden Bay, one of Tortola’s most popular beaches, and back several hours later, in time for my late-afternoon ferry to Virgin Gorda for $50.

At Cane Garden Bay, lounge chairs and umbrellas colonized the sand in front of a series of restaurant terraces and beach bars, welcoming travelers from the cruise ships, arriving in open-air buses. On an overcast day, I walked the beach between sporadic downpours to the more than 400-year-old Callwood Rum Distillery where Matthew Callwood, a distiller, bartender, tour guide and member of the family that has owned the distillery since the 1800s, led me and two cruise passengers on a tour ($5) of the mostly outdoor distillery works, including a 19th-century sugar cane crusher originally powered by harnessed donkeys.

“There used to be 28 distilleries on the island, and now there’s just us,” he said, pouring shots of Callwood’s four rums, including white, spiced and the smoother aged version he recommended. “It’s good for sipping, or putting in your coffee in the morning.”

I stashed a pint ($12) in my pack and moved on down the beach, watching divebombing pelicans on the water and free-ranging chickens on land. Beachfront restaurants teemed with day drinkers, but I followed Dodgy’s advice for lunch and went to Banana’s Bar & Grill, a polished bistro where cabdrivers were stopping in for takeout chicken soup. I learned why. Inexpensive and delicious, my $9 bowl brimmed with root vegetables, spinach and large tender pieces of chicken, bones and all.

If I had had time, I would have enjoyed outlasting the cruise passengers and staying on Cane Garden Bay at a place like Myett’s Garden Inn on the Beach, running $250 a night on Airbnb. But I had a ferry to catch.

Of bubbles and baths

Racing to make the late afternoon Speedy’s ferry to Virgin Gorda ($30 round trip), I was joined by a day-tripping set of cruise passengers, another American couple bound for a week at a luxury resort, uniformed schoolchildren and several returning islanders clutching bunches of stuffed shopping bags. One visitor leaned over the port railing, welcoming the warm wind in his face for the entire 30-minute passage toward Virgin Gorda, said to have been named Fat Virgin by Christopher Columbus for its pregnant profile.

You can tell a lot about an island by its ferry cargo. There were pallets of bottled water on the boat to Tortola. On Virgin Gorda, Speedy’s deckhands unloaded cases of Veuve Clicquot and Cakebread Cellars wines.

Virgin Gorda has long attracted the rich and famous. Taxi drivers pointed out Morgan Freeman’s former home and Richard Branson’s two nearby islands. Recently reopened after the hurricanes forced substantial rebuilding, Rosewood Little Dix Bay has catered to the affluent since Laurance Rockefeller developed the resort in 1964.

Consequently, a solitary backpacker seemed an usual sight in Spanish Town, the main settlement on Virgin Gorda. I declined taxi offers in favor of a 15-minute walk to Fischer’s Cove Beach Hotel, where blossoms were tucked in conch shells and towels in my tidy and spacious room ($175 a night). Only when I stepped onto the flamingo-pink patio and looked up did I realize there used to be a second story above, where rebar now pierced the blue sky. The Flax family, owners of the hotel, are gradually rebuilding after the hurricanes.

Tropical foliage has sprung back on much of the mountainous island, home to a series of national parks, including Gorda Peak National Park, with its panoramic trail to 1,370 feet elevation. Staying overnight on Virgin Gorda offers a rare opportunity to visit its best-loved beauty spot — the Baths National Park, protecting a dramatic stretch of shore where massive granite boulders as big as 40 feet in diameter cluster in the shallows — before the cruise ship crowds arrive.

At 7 a.m. when the first blush of light began pinking the clouds, I started down the park path past cactuses and the occasional orchid to Devil’s Bay where a septuagenarian foursome was quietly skinny dipping. I waited out a 10-minute rain shower in a shorefront cave weathered by the action of the waves. The path continued over and between the Baths’ boulders, sometimes with the assistance of steps or rope holds bolted into the rocks, walling off calm, shallow, swim-inviting pools.

I saw evidence of other early birds at the Baths — “M + M 2020” seemed freshly written in the sand — but I never saw them until I completed the roughly mile-long circuit and returned to the entrance at 8:30 a.m. where a line was already forming.

Lobster, yachts and empty beaches

“Tortola is the big city to us,” Dawn Flax, one of the family members who runs Fischer’s Cove, told me when I checked in. “We go there when we need to go to the bank or the lawyer.”

A day later, I ran into her at the ferry terminal on Tortola, returning home after a banking run. It was an unintended stop, but when the Wednesday departure from Virgin Gorda to Anegada was canceled, I was forced to the B.V.I.’s hub to catch Road Town Fast Ferry’s 300-passenger Lady Caroline from Tortola to Anegada ($50 round trip).

Of the six of us scattered among 30 seats on the outside upper deck, five were returning islanders, quizzing two with roll-aboard luggage about their vacation abroad. Children scrambled up and down the stairs for vending machine snacks and teenage couples leaned into each other, sharing earbuds. But the high seas soon quelled conversation, abandoned to the rush of the wind, the rhythmic rise and fall of passing boats under sail and the shifting view of outlying islands.

Sandy and flat where its sibling islands are steep and rugged, Anegada — the most northeastern island in the B.V.I., and the only coral island in the volcanic chain — resolved into view like an overgrown sandbar during the one-hour crossing.

From the concrete ferry pier, I got the vaguest of directions to my hotel — walk down the pier and take your first left — which turned out to be accurate. By late afternoon, the outdoor, oceanfront bar at the Anegada Reef Hotel was packed, not solely with guests of the 10-room hotel (from $155 a night), but also with sailors from the many yachts moored in front of it.

Other than the pre-sunset rush for rum-based Painkiller cocktails, the nightly hotel barbecue featuring the island’s renowned spiny lobster, and a D.J. blaring “Love Shack” from a bar at Potter’s by the Sea down the beach, Anegada is quiet.

“You come to Anegada to swim and sleep under the sea grapes in the shade and wake up and swim and eat and drink and sleep again,” explained an islander at the bar. “No one will bother you.”

I hoped not, especially when I rented a scooter the next morning for $50 a day from Michael Hastick, the co-owner of L&M rentals. He gave me, a scooter novice, a quick lesson in operating the vehicle and when I asked the speed limit, he smiled.

“There’s only one cop on the island,” he said, pointing to the empty street. “It’s Anegada, and this is rush hour.”

Technically, the speed limit is 30 m.p.h. And the occasional traffic obstacles were goats. Michael marked up a small map indicating where I would see the island’s flamingos (distantly, in an interior pond), its endangered Anegada iguanas (in conservation cages next to the police station) and its best beaches, especially Loblolly Bay on the north shore, home to beach bars for castaways (Flash of Beauty) and party people (Big Bamboo).

Despite an open sign, Flash of Beauty was deserted at 10 a.m. Conch shells lined sand paths through the dunes to the beach, strafed by surf despite the barrier of distant Horseshoe Reef, visible in a line of frothy waves. I plunged in and immediately saw conch shells and rainbow-colored fish schooling around coral heads, but with the strong current I decided that as much as I love solitude, it wasn’t safe to swim alone. It was, however, completely safe to leave my cellphone, wallet and scooter keys, and walk for miles down the deserted beach, returning to find everything as I left it, Flash of Beauty still closed and no other visitors.

Chased by another downpour, I stopped at nearby Anegada Beach Club, home to intriguing palapa-roofed beachfront tents, a kite-surfing school and a poolside restaurant where I met Paula and Michelle Mau, a couple from Omaha who regularly visit the island.

“Anegada is the end of the world,” Michelle said. “There’s no one here. It’s magic.”

The Maus spread some of that magic by inviting me, after just a five-minute chat, to join them on a private boat they had chartered to snorkel around the uninhabited east end of the island. We saw four-foot barracuda, green sea turtles and shy puffer fish. We froze in another pelting downpour and dried out in the sun. We cruised by 12-foot-high islands composed of conch shells that harvesters, dating back to the indigenous Arawak, cast off after taking the meat, creating pearly pink mounds where terns posed in profile. They wouldn’t take a dime in return, though the four-hour trip cost more than $300.

Before leaving on the next day’s 8:30 a.m. ferry to Tortola and onward to St. Thomas, I walked the beach to Neptune’s Treasure resort where the aroma of cinnamon rolls from Pam’s Kitchen served as an olfactory siren to sailors aboard the 50-some yachts tied up offshore.

The Caribbean is rarely a thrifty destination. Food can be expensive (I paid $40 for half a lobster at the Lobster Trap on Anegada). There were unexpected fees, including a B.V.I. environmental tax of $10 upon arrival and a $20 departure fee. My hotels would have been a better deal if split with a companion. I spent close to $1,000 on the trip.

But the compensation of taking the ferries went beyond financial. I traveled with commuting islanders of all ages, passed the time in terminal waiting rooms with women doing word search puzzles and joined them in bringing my own lunch aboard. These regular sailors knew to sit starboard to avoid the sun on the afternoon Anegada run and to move to the exit before docking to beat the disembarking crowds at Tortola.

Still, no one seemed to take this special means of transportation for granted. Like me, they tugged on sweaters, sat in the shade and watched the successive hues of blue streaming in and out of sight between water and sky.

Elaine Glusac is a frequent contributor to the Travel section.

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tripstations · 5 years ago

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Insider’s Guide to the Top 10 Islands in The Caribbean

Vacationers from all components of the world head to the Caribbean because it has a few of the most pristine trip spots on this planet.

The issue for the discerning traveler stays as to how to decide on the place to go, just because every territory and island nation is stunningly stunning in its personal proper. Silvery sand seashores, crystal clear waters and secluded shallow coves make these unspoilt island locations a few of the finest on this planet.

With a series of a staggering 7 000 plus islands, it is pure that just a few of them will be capable to meet your calls for and fulfil your entire fantasies. For this reason a few of the common and likewise some lesser-known islands are detailed right here –which might not supply a completely crowd-free Caribbean getaway, however will certainly take you to a chunk of paradise.

You’ll be able to spend your time island hopping, or lounging on distant seashores and discover the hidden bays with your loved ones and family members in a few of the most inspiring island locations on this planet, referred to as the Caribbean.

Barbados

Aside from the justified well-known seashores, the island of Barbados has all of it to cater to the necessity of each sort of style and funds. Not surprisingly, tourism is the principle spine of the financial system right here, contributing to roughly 50%of the nation’s overseas trade reserves. As a major vacationer scorching spot that caters to guests all 12 months spherical, what Barbados lacks in dimension, it simply makes up for in its appeal.

The locals are famend for his or her friendliness, and are thought-about to be the very best asset of this tiny island nation of roughly 166 sq. miles. Barbados, when it comes to sightseeing is a vacationer mecca, and so far as the nightlife is anxious, it’s unmissable to say the least.

Saba

The largely unspoilt island of Saba is in contrast to another vacation spot within the Caribbean. Often called the “Queen of the Caribbean”, the small island has surprisingly been left untouched by the trendy world round it. In contrast to it is extra well-known counterparts, the nightlife in Saba is restricted to small eating places and bars, whereas lodging is various. Although only a handful of motels and cottages can be found, they’re sufficient to cater to all of the calls for of the customer.

Until right this moment, life in Saba is straightforward going and laid again, the place the friendliness of the individuals replicate the honour and delight they really feel for the guests and their island. So in case you are on the lookout for a trip with a distinct twist, look no additional than Saba.

British Virgin Islands

They are saying that irrespective of which a part of the British Virgin Islands you occur to be, you can be overwhelmed not solely by the pleasant locals, however the out of doors actions and gorgeous seashores that can far exceed your expectations. Every of the 4 most important islands and the 50 or extra smaller isles have their very own distinctive character.

Pure splendours like Jost Van Dyke, Virgin Gorda, Anegada and Tortola all supply their very own particular dose of native magic, regardless of the place you resolve to drop anchor. For households, thrill seekers, journey lovers and the cultural minded, the British Virgin Islands beckon guests like no different.

Guadeloupe

This French abroad territory is a part of an island group within the Caribbean sea, with a form like a butterfly. Guadeloupe is definitely a formation of two islands separated by the River Salee. Whereas Grande Terre on the jap facet has resorts and seashores, the western island Basse Terre is vividly completely different. With waterfalls, a rain forest and a dormant volcano, it’s also the capital metropolis of Guadeloupe.

Transferring across the islands has been made somewhat straightforward, primarily due to the wonderful community of roads out there. It is simple to maneuver round in a automotive, accessing the various mountain climbing and nature trails which can be there to permit guests to find the true insights of the Caribbean.

Aruba

The eternally sunny isle of Aruba is claimed to be the very best Caribbean island for a lot of causes. To start with this 19.6 mile piece of land is simply 15 miles from the Venezuela coast. Secondly the resorts, motels and trip leases listed below are in a category of their very own. Having essentially the most sunny days of any island within the Caribbean, Aruba can be residence to the well-known Eagle Seaside, thought-about to be one of many ten finest on this planet.

Along with offering the very best seaside trip, Aruba is the highest wreck diving vacation spot of the Caribbean. If that’s not sufficient, the delicacies on supply here’s a mix of 90 completely different nationalities. Aruba can be residence to the Arikok Nationwide Park, which once more occurs to be the biggest within the Caribbean.

Antigua

Antigua, that means ‘historical’, in Spanish, was a former British colony located in the jap Caribbean. The island boasts a few of the most ravishingly stunning seashores that may’t be discovered wherever else on this planet. The colourful capital St. John is a premier cruise ship vacation spot, with museums, procuring and historic buildings being the highest draw.

In Antigua they are saying that life’s a seaside, with one put aside for on a regular basis of the 12 months. Despite the ever current English aptitude, Antigua is quintessentially Caribbean, stuffed with colourful villages the place vibrant eyed natives are at all times there to nice you with a large smile.

Grenada

Additionally known as the spice isle, the hilly island of Grenada has quite a few nutmeg plantations from the place it received its different title. The amalgamation of untouched magnificence, pleasant individuals and the easy lifestyle, makes a Grenada trip a pure and genuine expertise.

In a spot largely undiscovered by the vacationers, this enchanting island boasts of lovely landscapes and lengthy stretches of white sandy seashores the place guests hunt for sunken treasures amidst colourful corals. So if you need an unforgettable journey, head to Grenada, Petite Martinique and Carriacou.

Nevis

Situated within the northern area of the West Indies, Nevis lies adjoining to St. Kitts, a fast 10 minute water taxi drive away. Regardless of its scenic magnificence, the Authorities, until right this moment, has most well-liked to maintain this tiny piece of paradise off the radar of mass tourism. The locals love their island and like to maintain it that method, despite the opening of some good motels which have now nearly put Nevis on the vacationer map.

The elegant great thing about Nevis is encircled in a mere 36 sq. miles of space, with the conical volcano of Nevis Peak seen from all components of the island. The mile lengthy nature forest path aptly showcases how the residents worth their flora.

Bequia

Thought-about by some as essentially the most excellent island within the Caribbean, this hilly and verdant place is residence to the most effective protected harbors, and is essentially the most stunning in the entire of Windies. The capital Port Elizabeth is a village like assortment of colourful picket buildings. The Belmont Walkway is a reasonably highway alongside the waterside, working previous a bunch of eating places and bars.

The Princess Margaret seaside, a secluded however superb 500m stretch of golden sands surrounded by almond and cedar timber and only a single bar. Excursions by boat to a close-by abandoned island supply alternatives for prime class snorkeling and full day picnics.

Grand Cayman

This largest of the Cayman Islands, the Grand Cayman has all the things a traveler might yearn for. Located roughly 90 miles off the Cuban coast, the island is essentially the most visited and common of the entire space. Georgetown, the capital, is a crucial cruise ship vacation spot, attracting guests particularly for the wonderful scuba diving spots on supply.

This British abroad territory has lengthy since been seen as a secure banking haven, other than the gorgeous pure magnificence which is current in each potential space of the island. The underground caverns system referred to as Crystal Caves is an intriguing piece of geography on the lesser developed northern coast.

The Bahamas

The Bahamas are situated northeast of Florida within the North Atlantic Ocean, however are nonetheless thought-about as being a part of the Caribbean. This largely uninhabited assortment of practically 700 coral reef islands are referred to in Spanish as “shallow water”. Although the Bahamas represent of a whole bunch of islands, vacationers are solely interested in a handful.

The capital, Nassau, is residence to the world well-known Atlantis resort, whereas the Grand Bahama is well-known for its wonderful underground water cave system. The 12 months spherical 80 diploma temperature is simply excellent for island hopping and having fun with sips of native rum on the seaside. For the discerning customer, there are artwork galleries, museums, casinos and far more.

The entire Caribbean islands are bursting on the seams with exercise, although some could also be extra lively than others. This large archipelago of the Caribbean Sea consists of 13 sovereign states and 17 dependent territories. The islands described right here have their very own benefit over others, largely based mostly on their accessibility, actions on supply and price of lodging.

Journey tip shared by Jo www.wanderwithjo.com

The post Insider’s Guide to the Top 10 Islands in The Caribbean appeared first on Tripstations.

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albinohare · 6 years ago

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BVI Bliss

The author’s chartered Aquila 44 approaches Sandy Spit, a sandbar just off Jost Van Dyke. (Zach Stovall/)

I have showered open-airon the stern at daybreak. I have seen gleaming white yachts in sizes ranging from humble to mega; some with sails, some without, and some on which sails could be put, but the owner couldn’t be bothered to do so. I have seen clouds alight in a Pantone guide’s worth, only to be mirrored by a metallic, shimmering sea.

My quartet of shipmates from Tennessee and I have taken a weeklong hiatus from our day jobs to live out the lyrics of any country song involving boats and sand here in the British Virgin Islands. On this sunny, 83-degree day—as every day promises to be here—our Caribs are going down cold and the radio is cranked on the flybridge of Jewel Box, a brawny, three-stateroom Aquila 44 powercat from MarineMax Vacations.

She’s pointed toward Virgin Gorda while on our circuitous route through green hills that rise forth from turquoise waters.

From Left: The 3-foot-3-inch draft (top) helps in skinny water and the is 44 easy for a couple to handle (bottom). The Baths are a BVI must-do. (Zach Stovall/)

At the helm sits Parker, a distinguished man who would not look out of place with epaulets on his shirt. His wife, Karen, is our resident snorkel goddess, and he is flanked by Matt and Milka, a couple contractually obligated to blend pina coladas to perfection. I am the fifth wheel, pressed into service as first-assistant buoy wrangler.

We tie up outside Spanish Town, teeing us up to be the first at daybreak to grab a coveted mooring ball at The Baths, the country’s most recognizable natural wonder. We then celebrate our orientation aboard Jewel Box and first full day of BVI bareboating with sundowners at CocoMaya, a chic South Beach-inspired restaurant on the sand, and a must-see on any BVI cruise.

The next morning, I awake to Jewel Box‘s twin Volvo Pentas cranking all 520 horses, propelling us past the Club Med 2, a boutique cruise ship that just anchored, determined to inundate languorous beaches with acres of sun-seeking tourists. We quickly ready our snorkeling gear and dry bags, intent to swim ashore and have the granite grottoes mostly to ourselves. The boulders, rounded like giant river rocks, are piled at the edge of the sea. The experience of exploring their intimate passages is majestic, especially before the rest of the day’s sightseer rush begins.

Clockwise from top left: Fresh Anegada lobster. Hiking in The Baths. Snorkeling at Norman Island. Pina Coladas on the hook. Cruising off Jost Van Dyke. (Zach Stovall/)

Our next stop is Anegada, where, looking to beat the tour groups on land too, we rent a Suzuki at the Anegada Beach Club. “Drive on the left. Keep it under 30. We have wild cows, wild sheep, wild donkeys and wild people. They all roam freely,” club owner Lawrence Wheatley says.

Regarded by some as the British Virgin Islands’ sleepy stepsister, Anegada’s an outlier not only for its physical distance from the chain, but also for its flat, featureless silhouette on the horizon. The 15-mile run from our overnight spot at Leverick Bay took an hour and 40 minutes, by Parker’s count.

After navigating the ship-swallowing reef that encircles the island, we’re hungry for a lobster lunch, which was promised to Matt and Milka long before we set foot in the BVI. Passing more cows than cars, we land at Big Bamboo on Loblolly Bay, a 10-mile ribbon of gleaming white sand fronted by the reef where our lunch once lived. As we wait for the lobsters to grill, we occupy ourselves with chilled Caribs and swing in woven chairs hung from seagrape trees.

Alas, even in paradise, we eventually have to press onward.

The view from Norman Island overlooking The Bight in the British Virgin Islands. (Zach Stovall/)

Next is Jost Van Dyke, where Matt, Parker and I stare at the last mooring ball, which is missing part of its pennant. Matt and I call “not it” to swim to the buoy and secure the boat. We surely have onlookers: A flotilla is anchored stern-to the sand, with skippers as eager to enjoy White Bay Beach as we are. A string of bars known for rum punch and cornhole is just above the high-water mark. There’s Seddy’s One Love, Ivan’s Stress-Free Bar and, of course, the Soggy Dollar, where Painkillers (the cocktail, not the pills) have eased seafarers’ ails for decades.

Our time sipping Painkillers under the palms is short, but effective, as Parker notes many other charters have cut and run for Peter Island’s Great Harbour, a protected overnight anchorage minutes away. We follow suit, having a New York-style pizza on the beach, and later listening to a chorus of cocktail-inspired karaoke drift across from Foxy’s Tamarind Bar while we watch shooting stars flash over Jewel Box‘s bow.

Clockwise from top left: Cocktails at Big Bamboo Bar on Anegada. Hiking on Norman Island. Rum punch at Corsair’s Beach Bar on Jost Van Dyke. (Zach Stovall/)

Come daylight, I take the wheel from Jost to Norman Island for a snorkeling excursion. The afternoon involves welcomed laziness, followed by a hike up the spine of the island, where we admire a red sun sinking behind the rolling hills of St. John’s. The next morning we end our week at The Indians: four pinnacles of rock, like icebergs, hiding more below the surface than above. Karen leads us on our most epic snorkel yet, along a healthy reef teeming with blue tangs, sergeant majors, parrotfish and coral.

Afterward, we end our carefree week of breathe-easy British Virgin Islands cruising and cocktail-infusion therapy at the base back in Tortola, and we thank Jewel Box for giving us an up-close look at this seafarer’s paradise. Happily tired, sandy and sunburned, I think, Sometimes it’s good to be the fifth wheel.

Getting There

Connecting to the MarineMax Vacations base on Tortola’s Beef Island is easiest via puddle jumper, like those from San Juan, Puerto Rico, aboard Cape Air or Seaborne Airlines. An alternative route through St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands, with a connecting ferry to Road Town on Tortola, is less expensive, but expect long lines at Customs and Immigration.

The Fine Print

MarineMax offers several power catamarans from its BVI base for bareboat, captained or crewed charter. One option is all-inclusive (with a captain, chef/deckhand, food, snacks, drinks, spirits, kayaks, a stand-up paddleboard, mooring-ball fees, taxes and insurance). Another is a la carte with a captain and chef. Or take the boat yourself, like we did. The vessels range from a two-stateroom 36-footer to a four-stateroom 48-footer. Bareboats charters like ours start at $1,287 and go up to $1,785 per night ($429 to $595 per stateroom).

Room to Breathe

The Aquila 44 is one of five power catamarans in the builder’s line, ranging from 32 to 48 feet length overall. Our version had three staterooms and three heads, making her a good option for couples who want to share the charter without anyone feeling like he’s stuck in a kiddie cabin. The master stateroom’s berth measures 71 inches wide by 79 inches long, or about the size of a queen; guest stateroom berths are 59 inches wide by 79 inches long. The salon’s seating converts into a single berth. A smart feature is the hinged window that opens the galley to the cockpit bar, to serve guests easily inside and outside.

If this Hull Could Talk

Her hold is laden with dark rum and darker secrets of those who have stayed long after sunset. The Willy T is the floating bar of Caribbean lore, but adrift for permanent anchorage because of a government dispute after her grounding in Hurricane Irma. Temporarily in Peter Island’s Great Harbour, her stern bar still serves up stories to remember.

Take the next step: marinemax.com/vacations

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easytravelpw-blog · 6 years ago

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The Best Beach Bars in the Caribbean

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Caribbean Beach Bars: Sunny Days and Lively Nights

Photo via Pexels

Beach bars are the epitome of the mellow Caribbean vibe, a distillation of sun, sand, rum, reggae, and the untamed personalities that make island life the best. Here's some of the Caribbean beach bars we think should be on your travel itinerary — heck, maybe even the point of your visit in the first place!

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The Soggy Dollar, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

For decades, BVI boaters have been wading ashore on Jost Van Dyke with pockets full of sodden cash to seek refreshment at the Soggy Dollar Bar, famous for inventing the Painkiller rum cocktail. Down a couple of these nutmeg-sprinked concoctions and suddenly that ring game either becomes a cinch or the biggest challenge since trigonometry, depending on how the buzz hits you. Best to grab a bite to eat while you are here (three meals are served daily), and if you overindulge you can ask about a room at the adjoining Sandcastle Hotel.

Check BVI Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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The Bomba Shack, Tortola, BVI

Constructed largely of driftwood and other odds and ends, the Bomba Shack is held together in part by a collection of donated bras, panties, and other “unmentionables” from guests past and present. Yes, this Tortola bar is an adults-only place, and the party really gets going on nights when the moon is full and Bomba's (possibly psychedelic) mushroom tea starts flowing. Rum, dancing, live bands and Bomba himself add to the fun.

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Foxy’s, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

Photo by Bob Curley

Many of the best Caribbean beach bars are named after their long-time proprietors, and that's the case with Foxy's on Jost Van Dyke, where owner Foxy Callwood is not only omnipresent but also provides the entertainment (on guitar and vocals) and concocts the libations (homemade rum and four varieties of microbrewed beer). Foxy's is famous for having the Caribbean's best New Year's Eve party (known as Old Year's here), but you can drink, dance, dine and lime at this British Virgin Islands bar anytime — but especially on weekends where they get their big barbecue going.

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Cow Wreck Beach Bay, Anegada, BVI

A shipwreck that spilled a load of cow bones onto this beach on Anegada gave the Cow Wreck Beach Bar it's unusual name, but that's hardly the only odd thing that's washed ashore to suck down a Cow Killer punch or three from the honor bar. This being the BVI, the beach of course is gorgeous, and the Cow Wreck may be one of the few bars in the world where you can go surfcasting and catch your own dinner (or keep it simple and order the delicious conch fritters or lobster). If you overindulge or just can't get up the will to depart, you can rent one of the Cow Wreck's oceanfront villas for the night.

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Iggie’s, St. Thomas

Located next door to the Bolongo Bay resort, Iggie's is the best beach bar on St. Thomas and also quite convenient to the hotels of Charlotte Amalie. This is a bona-fide restaurant as well as a bar, featuring an excellent Caribbean buffet during the weekly Carnival night that includes moko jumbies, fire walkers, live calypso bands, and more. But Iggies' real claim to fame is that it hosts live music every night of the year, ranging from local acts to surprise guests like Stevie Wonder.

Check USVI Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Sunshine’s, Nevis

Sunshine's is the most famous bar on the quiet island of Nevis, a focal point for local nightlife as well as a magnet for visitors, including those staying at the luxurious Four Seasons Nevis Resort next door. Sunshine's is far from posh — the main building houses a restaurant where you can plop onto a weatherbeaten couch and order a burger or some local fish, and there are several covered pavilions to provide shade when you want to sit closer to the water and sip on one of Sunshine's famous Killer Bees, a rum punch made with local moonshine. Have a few of these and you'll be sleeping on the beach — not a bad thing, since Pinney's Beach is Nevis' longest and prettiest stretch of sand.

Check St. Kitts and Nevis Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Shiggidy Shack, St. Kitts

Frigate Bay in St. Kitts is home to a cluster of lively beach bars — all within walking distance of the St. Kitts Marriott Resort — but the most famous is Mr. X's Shiggidy Shack, known for its grilled lobster and lively mix of college students, expats, tourists and locals. The shack is open daily from 10 a.m. on, but heats up at night with a Thursday night bonfire, live music on Fridays, and karaoke on Saturday nights.

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Le Petibonum, Martinique

Chef Guy Ferdinand — a.k.a. “Chef Hot Pants” — is the main attraction at the rare beach bar where the food, not the drinks, are the main draw. That's not to say that you can't get a good drink here: after all,Martinique is part of France, so of course the wine list is fabulous, and there's also local rhum agricole and Biere Lorriane to consider. But that's just a prelude to fine French dining on the beach, from escargot to filet mignon to the freshest local fish and lobster. All served under a simple canopy in the sand and just steps from the bar's private beach chairs, cabanas, and the crashing surf.

Check Martinique Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Sundowner’s, Roatan

People travel to the island of Roatan (off the coast of Honduras) to truly get away from it all, but when you want to get away from it all ON Roatan, you head to Sundowner's. Located on Half Moon Bay Beach on Roatan's West End, Sundowner's has most of the attributes you want in a beach bar: cheap drinks, good food, mellow waters, plenty of room to spread out to work on your tan, and character galore. Settle under a palapa and sip a frozen Monkey Lala while the sun sets over the Caribbean, surrounded by friends old and newly made, and you'll be channeling the true spirit of the islands.

Check Roatan Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Castaways, Antigua

This Jolly Beach hot spot is known for its great burgers and sundowners after a day spent lolling in the sand. If you are an early beach person, Castaway's serves breakfast daily, and while you'll find plenty of Caribbean food on the menu, they also serve Chinese cuisine some nights. Take in the spectacular sunset and settle in for a laid-back evening of fun Antigua style, including the weekly Friday bonfire.

Check Antigua Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Da Conch Shack, Turks and Caicos

Cracked conch is the speciality of the house at Da Conch Shack, a Turks and Caicos gathering place that has managed to maintain its authentic aura despite the rapid development of Providenciales in recent years. This Blue Hills Beach bar and restaurant serves a mean rum punch alongside off-the-boat fresh seafood — well worth the drive out to settle in on one of the picnic tables in the sand for lunch, dinner, or just people-watching with drink in hand.

Check Turks and Caicos Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Basil’s, Mustique

Photo courtesy of Basil's

If you want a “see and be seen” experience in the Caribbean, head to St. Barts. But if you want a chance to rub elbows with celebrities where nobody really cares who you are, visit Basil Charles' laid-back beach bar on Mustique in the Grenadines, where everyone from Mick Jagger to members of Britain's royal family have come in for a toot over the years. The place may not get as wild as it did in its '70s heyday, but on the bright side the food has gotten better, and you can still drink and dance above the waves into the wee hours. The annual Mustique Blues Festival, held at Basil's and featuring performers like Julien Brunetaud, is the event of the year on this tiny, tony island.

Check Mustique Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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The Dune Preserve, Anguilla

Lots of beach bars have live music, but the Dune Preserve in Anguilla is one of the few in the Caribbean that qualifies as a bona fide concert venue. Owner Bankie Banx is a renowned reggae artist in his own right, and the annual Moonsplashcelebration brings in diverse acts from around the world. You can walk here from the CuisinArt resort (or after a round of golf at the neighboring Temenos course) and settle into the ramshackle, open-air bar and restaurant for a Duneshine or rum punch. If Bankie himself is performing there's a cover charge, but usually other entertainment is free.

Check Anguilla Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Nippers, Great Guana Cay, Bahamas

This bright and cheerful beach bar in theOut Islands of the Bahamas is a wet and wild experience with two big beachside pools, a lively tiki bar, and hopping dance floor. The weekly (Sunday) pig roast is a can't miss, and if you're lucky you'll be in town for one of the semi-annual Barefoot Man concerts, a true “only in the island” happening where a local musician rounds up his buddies and thousands of fans flock to a tiny cay to hear the show.

Check Bahamas Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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The Pelican Bar, Treasure Beach, Jamaica

You can see the beach from the Pelican Bar — but from the water side, not the shore side. What may initially appear to be a pile of woody debris washed up on an offshore sandbar near Treasure Beach is in fact one of the most unique bars inJamaica. Call in your lobster lunch in advance, then hop onto a rickety boat for the short ride out to the bar, where owner Floyd will take a break from dominos to serve you some cold Red Stripes. You can mellow out on the dock or hop into the water (it's only a few feet deep around the bar) to do some snorkeling. Since you've made it out here, be sure to leave some memento of your visit on the walls — carved initials, a license place, articles of clothing …

Check Jamaica Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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The Wreck Bar, Rum Point, Grand Cayman

Take the free ferry from the busy West Side of Grand Cayman to laid-back Rum Point, and the picnic tables at the Wreck Bar are as about as casual as it gets (other than the beach hammocks, of course). Want a break from all that Caribbean rum? Order one of the famous Wreck Bar mudslides to go along with the surprisingly sophisticated pub grub (there's a gourmet restaurant attached to the bar).

Check Cayman Islands Rates and Reviews at TripAdvisor

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Elvis’ Beach Bar, Anguilla

Elvis himself — OK, not the “Love Me Tender” one — tends bar at this popular beach bar in Sandy Ground. Elvis Beach Bar is appropriately built from an old boat, and Elvis' gets especially lively during NFL football games (there's a big screen TV to watch on). You can step out of the shade at the boat bar to the roof deck to work on your tan, Elvis' specialty rum punch in hand.

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